The safari circuit, park by park
Masai Mara is the headline: big cat density year round and the Great Migration river crossings between July and October. Amboseli trades volume for scale, with elephant herds walking under Kilimanjaro on a clear morning. Tsavo East and West are vast, red-earth and far emptier of vehicles. Lake Nakuru is a half-day of flamingo shoreline and one of the safest rhino populations in the country. Ol Pejeta on the Laikipia plateau holds the last two northern white rhinos and runs conservancy game drives with far fewer cars. Samburu in the north has species you will not see further south: Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, gerenuk.
Day trips you can do out of Nairobi and back
Nairobi National Park sits fifteen minutes from the city and is the only national park in the world inside a capital, with lions against a skyline of towers. Lake Naivasha pairs a boat among hippos with a walking or cycling safari in Hell's Gate, where there are no big predators so you go through the gorge on foot. Karura Forest gives you waterfalls, Mau Mau caves and a canopy walk inside the city limits. Ngong Hills is a ridge walk with the Rift Valley on one side and Nairobi on the other. Mount Kenya and the Aberdares take longer, from an overnight on Point Lenana to a full technical climb.
City walks, community tours and the free tour question
Nairobi walking tours run past Parliament, KICC, the Jamia Mosque, City Market and the Maasai Market, usually two to three hours on foot. Many are pay-what-you-want rather than free in the strict sense: nothing is charged upfront and you tip your guide what the walk was worth at the end. Community tours in Kibera are led by residents, agreed with the people you meet, and route a share of the fee into local schools and youth projects. If you want the format without the crowd, Mathare and Korogocho run similar walks with far fewer visitors.
What a Kenyan safari actually costs
Budget group camping safaris run about US$150 to US$250 per person per day all in. Mid-range lodges land around US$300 to US$450. Conservancy and high-end tented camps run past US$700. Park fees are the fixed floor under all of it: Masai Mara entry is US$100 per adult per day inside the reserve, with Amboseli, Tsavo and Nakuru lower. Aggregators typically take fifteen to twenty-five percent from the operator, and that margin is already inside the rate you are quoted elsewhere. On Cabana the operator's price is the price, and they keep all of it.
When to go
July to October is peak: dry, thin bush, best sightings, and the Mara river crossings. Book three to six months out for a specific camp. January to March is hot, dry and quieter, and the clearest window for Kilimanjaro from Amboseli. April to May is the long rains and November the short ones: lowest prices, greenest country, muddier roads and some seasonal camps closed.
Paying, and what direct booking means here
Every Kenyan operator on Cabana takes M-Pesa, and card or bank transfer works if you are booking from abroad. Payment reaches the operator directly with no commission taken out, and you get their own contact details along with the confirmation, so the person answering the phone about your pickup is the person driving the vehicle.
Kenya: frequently asked
Are the walking tours in Nairobi really free?
How do I book a Masai Mara safari with zero commission?
Can I pay for a Kenya safari with M-Pesa?
Is it safe to tour Kibera?
What does a Masai Mara safari cost?
When is the best time for a Kenya safari?
Do I need a 4x4 for Kenyan parks?
How far in advance should I book?
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Game drives, day trips and city walks, direct with the operator.
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